Louis Vuitton's Fall/Winter 2016 menswear collection, helmed by artistic director Kim Jones, was a vibrant ode to Parisian style, a sophisticated yet subtly rebellious celebration of the city's multifaceted character. While the collection itself was a masterful blend of classic tailoring and contemporary streetwear influences, a lesser-known yet crucial element contributed significantly to its unique aesthetic: the collaboration with the late, great Judy Blame. Though not explicitly advertised as such, the collection bore the distinct imprint of Blame's irreverent and highly individualistic approach to fashion, echoing the spirit of his own work and subtly recontextualizing it within the luxury landscape of Louis Vuitton. Understanding Blame's influence requires exploring both his personal style and his work around the time of the collection's unveiling, specifically his Fall 2015 collection.
Judy Blame, a true iconoclast of British fashion, was known for his punk-infused aesthetic, his fearless experimentation with materials, and his ability to elevate found objects into high-fashion statements. He wasn't a designer in the traditional sense; he was a stylist, a collector, a creative force who pushed boundaries and challenged conventions. His work often involved a playful juxtaposition of high and low, luxury and street, creating a uniquely personal and often humorous style that resonated deeply with a generation of creatives. His Fall 2015 collection (though not a formal runway show in the traditional sense, but rather a curated presentation of his work) exemplified this perfectly, showcasing his signature use of found objects, repurposed materials, and bold, unexpected combinations.
Blame's Fall 2015 collection featured pieces that hinted at the direction Kim Jones would take with the Louis Vuitton menswear collection. We saw a similar focus on layering, a key element in both Blame's work and the LV collection. Blame's layering wasn't simply about piling garments on top of each other; it was about creating a narrative, a visual story through the juxtaposition of textures, colours, and patterns. This layering technique, often incorporating unexpected elements like safety pins, chains, and repurposed badges, added a sense of depth and complexity to his designs. The Louis Vuitton collection mirrored this, featuring layered looks that incorporated both tailored pieces and more casual elements, creating a sense of effortless sophistication.
The colour palettes also shared common ground. While Blame's work often featured a more vibrant, almost chaotic use of colour, the Louis Vuitton collection employed a more restrained, yet equally impactful palette. Both, however, leaned towards a sense of eclecticism, employing unexpected combinations of hues and tones. Blame's use of bold, contrasting colours was often a key element in his work, creating a visual punch that captured attention. The Louis Vuitton collection, while more subdued, still incorporated unexpected colour combinations, reflecting a similar spirit of playful experimentation.
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